If we had to mention a boom within the global whiskey industry, it is indisputable that we are referring to Ireland. Today, with more than 40 distilleries in full operation, added to a few more in the process of planning and development, the Emerald Isle is also called the “phoenix of whiskey”, after the calamitous history that left the country with very few players operating in 1987: Bushmills in Northern Ireland (now Proximo Spirits), Midleton (Pernod Ricard) and the Cooley group (now Beam Suntory) in the Republic of Ireland.
The great fame that today identifies Ireland as a whiskey-producing country is due to it's particular style, the “Irish Pot Still”: a product whose production legally requires the use of a minimum 30% unpeated malted barley in the mash bill (also essential for enzyme development, although in Ireland the use of exogenous enzymes is permitted), 30% unmalted barley, and up to 5% other unmalted grains, distilled either twice or thrice times in pot stills. This first piece of information marks the kick-off to finding the sweet spot of pot still whiskeys.
The use of unmalted barley has been implemented since 1785, and was presented as an alternative to reduce taxes on distillers. Compared to malted barley, unmalted barley leaves a different aroma profile in the final product, much spicier and with hints of nuttiness and fruit, with a noticeably oilier and lighter texture. The geographical identification (GI) for Irish Pot Still Whiskeys is the only one that specifies the use of unmalted barley in its production, with Midleton being a pioneer in this style.
The level of alcohol in the final product (%ABV) also varies according to the style of pot still whiskey. More than two centuries of tradition in the use of unmalted barley culminates today with the majority of these whiskeys bottled at a minimum of 46% ABV/92 PROOF.
It is commonly reported by brand ambassadors and whiskey communicators alike that this increase in the alcoholic strength is due to a need for distilleries to compensate for the lightness of the distillate, given by the high percentage of unmalted barley present in the mash bill. However, the expressiveness of the congeners in a pot still whiskey, whether it is the fruity aftertaste, it's subtlespicy touch, or even it's oily texture, is appreciated in a radically more pleasant way when working at a strength of 46-48% ABV/92-96 PROOF (perhaps the exception to this statement is the multi-award-winning Redbreast 12yo Single Pot Irish Whiskey, whose bottling strength is 40%ABV/80 PROOF, showing an incredible expressiveness of it's own style).
Unlike single malts, which tend to have an astonishing performance on the nose and palate at 40% ABV / 80 PROOF (just as Bushmills has always done with it's core range), pot still whiskeys require that extra level of bottling strength. Clear examples of this “sweet spot” for the Irish flagship are Teeling Single Pot Still (46% ABV/92 PROOF) or the recently launched Boann Single Pot Still, from Boann Distillery (47% ABV/94 PROOF).
The maturation of these products is also a determining factor in reaching the so-called sweet spot. Following centuries of tradition, the initial maturations of pot still Irish whiskey tend to be classic, using ex-bourbon and/or ex-sherry casks, whether they are first filled ones or casks with several uses depending on the new make spirit itself.
However, given the resurgence of the industry, today the distilleries of the Emerald Isle are trying to find their own style, turning to exotic barrels. A clear example of this innovation is the Writer's Tears Pot Still Tequila Cask Finish, an unusual choice to give the whiskey a non-traditional profile.
Likewise, the years of maturation are a key factor: a pot still whiskey necessarily requires to be properly aged to fully delineate it's soft and oily texture, and combine the wide range of aromas and flavors present in the spirit.
The challenge for small and new producers in Ireland, many of them bonders and/or blenders, is to be able to offer different options that attract the public, even if they are still young (no more than 6-8 years of maturation).
Only time will tell if this great and varied offer of new pot still Irish whiskey will bring the producing country back to the levels of consumption prior to the massive closure of local distilleries, or if the new and shiny emerald bubble will burst once more!
Slán go fóill.